With thanks to the UK settlement in Australia, Australians have been producing fortified
wines since soon after captain Cook arrived. The demand for fortified wines became so high
in Australia that cooler climate regions pulled out their vines in the first half of the 20 th
century as they could not compete.
Australian ‘sherry’ became the females’ drink in the 1900’s while the males drank beer.
Most of us would have an elderly relative who used to drink a glass or two (of more!) of
McWilliams Cream Sherry or something similar. This market has just about died off
(literally!). In the 1950’s fortified wine accounted for 86% of all wine production.

In the 1980’s and 1990’s with the growing interest in overseas wines and a new, dynamic
importer of Spanish wine the market for ‘real’ sherry began to grow, albeit from a very small
base (well under 10%)!
Around the same time, Australia’s winemaking regulations were changed to allow a lower
level of fortification. This is particularly important with flor-based sherries. At 18% abv, they
were unbalanced and hot. This regulation increased the quality overnight.
With the agreement to respect the European Union Geographical Indications, the naming of
Australian ‘sherry’ became a problem. After much market research, the name Apera was
decided on.

Apart from producing a multitude of different quality levels of Tawny and a few Vintage
fortified wine that were called Port in the past, our most famous wines are the Rutherglen
Muscats and Topaques (was called Tokay).

In the past, we have also made wines which we called Port. The name Port is not allowed to
be used on our fortified red wines but Tawny, Ruby and Vintage still are.
Australian red fortified wines have been based upon Shiraz, Grenache and Mataro
(Mourvèdre). There was a little Touriga planted which was used as well. More recently, the
Rutherglen producers have actively planted the Portuguese Port varietals.
The grapes are picked late and part way through the fortification neutral (SVR) spirit is
added. Tawnys can spend many years in casks becoming quite rich and luscious. These were called Liqueur Ports.

In following the English, we made cheap, sweet fortified wines which were called Port but
barely resembled a Ruby. This market has literally died over the last few decades.
We still make Vintage styles which age well but generally not as long as the Ports that they
are modeled on.
Generally Australian Tawnys and Vintage fortified wines tend to be sweeter and richer than
those of Port.
Unlike Port (real Port), the buildings for aging are not cooled by the ocean influence but can
get quite hot. The Portuguese talk about a ‘Douro Bake’ character when they age their
wines in warm to hot conditions. It is considered a negative character. In Rutherglen, it is
considered a positive bringing the rancio and caramel and toffee characters into the wine.

1 Wine Australia Market Bulletin Issue 65

Jancis Robinson has described Rutherglen Muscat as ‘…some of the most extraordinary in
the world, and nowhere else has the vine stocks and arid climate to grow and mature
anything like them’ 2

Made from Muscat à Petits Grains Rouge or as the locals call it: Brown Muscat. The grapes
are picked late in the season and fermentation begins. It is quickly fortified with either a
neutral spirit or a brandy spirit depending on the producers’ choice. Then the aging begins.
The aging varies depending on the producer. Some winemakers have generations of aged
material to include in their blends giving incredible depth of flavour. Some prefer to make a
fresher style. Some have savoury notes while others are very sweet and luscious.
The Rutherglen producers put together a classification according to style. This classification
has been made part of the Wine Australia wine regulations.

Base classification. The wines should be a younger style showing fresh fruit characters
and integration of spirit.
Terms such as “Barossa Muscat or “Rutherglen Muscat” may be used where this is
consistent with the Fortified Wine Code of Practice.

A maturing style exhibiting raisined fruit flavour, cask aged flavour and the beginnings
of rancio character. The palate shows balanced lusciousness, richness on the mid-
palate from cask ageing and some concentrated characters.

A mature style exhibiting aged fruit flavour, rich cask aged character and rancio
character. The palate shows balanced lusciousness, rich mid-palate from cask ageing,
concentrated flavours from ageing and rancio flavours.

A rancio style showing all the flavours of prolonged cask ageing – lusciousness, extreme rancio and concentration.

Source: Australian Wine Industry Fortified Code of Practice page 12/13

– Average age 2-5 years.
– Residual sugar 180-240g/l.

– Average age 5-10 years.
– RS 200-280 g/l

– Average age 10-15 years.
– RS 270-400 g/l

– Minimum age 20+ years.
– RS 270-400 g/l

Source: NMIT International Wine Styles Course powerpoints

2 Wine Australia Market Bulletin Issue 65

Topaque is made from Muscadelle – the minor white grape variety in Bordeaux. Muscadelle
is not part of the Muscat family. It is made in a similar fashion to Muscat.
In the past ‘Tokay’ is a synonym for Muscadelle and was the name given to the fortified
wine now called Topaque. This final change occurred when (from June 2020), the word
Tokay was not allowed to be used.
Topaque may be made from a single vintage or a blend of vintages and is unique to
Australia. It can only be fortified using Australian grape spirit.
There is a classification system in place indicating the style and aging similar to that of
Muscat.

‘Tokay’ is a synonym for Muscadelle and for the purposes of this code is a term
used to describe an Australian fortified wine. From June 2020, the word tokay
may not be used to describe or present an Australian wine. Topaque is an
Australian term that may be used to describe a fortified wine produced from
Muscadelle. This is a high quality wine from a single vintage or a blend of vintages
and is unique to Australia. Fortification must be from Australian grape spirit. The
wines are usually aged in oak containers for different lengths of time according to
the classification system below. The wines are quite sweet and are generally
served as a dessert style wine.

To use the classification Topaque, the wine must be:
– Made from 85% muscadelle grapes
– Be presented with an Australian Geographic indication
– Contain no less than 150 mL/L and no more than 220 mL/L of ethanol at
20°C, however, may attain a higher level of ethanol by natural increases
created by maturation in wooden vessels.

Base classification. The wines should be a younger style showing fresh fruit
characters and integration of spirit.
Terms such as “Barossa Tokay” or “Rutherglen Fortified Muscadelle” may be used
where this is consistent with the Fortified Wine Code of Practice.

A maturing style made from Muscadelle/Tokay exhibiting raisined fruit flavour,
cask aged flavour and the beginnings of rancio character. The palate shows
balanced lusciousness, richness on the mid-palate from cask ageing and some
concentrated characters.

A mature style from Muscadelle/Tokay exhibiting aged fruit flavour, rich cask aged
character and rancio character. The palate shows balanced lusciousness, rich mid-
palate from cask ageing, concentrated flavours from ageing and rancio flavours.

Source: Australian Wine Industry Fortified Code of Practice page 13